Sunday, June 9, 2013

Local life


Another week done! Rather than thinking 'Winter is coming,' I think I'm safe to say it's here now. It's been a chilly, rainy week; but there has been a bit of beautiful sun! Other than that, it's been pretty quiet. My badminton colleagues and I won our games (WAHOO!), I finished another book, saw the finale of MKR (My Kitchen Rules - a popular NZ cooking show) and enjoyed New Zealand life.  I met some more young people living and working in Gisborne, celebrated a birthday with them, and went 'dancing in the dark.' That entails turning up some great, funky music in the local theatre/'poverty bay club,' turning out the lights, and dancing happily with a few others crazy enough to join us - lots of fun! I also headed out to the local silver screen (yes, Gisborne has not only one, but three!) to se Gatsby. The next day my local 'Aunti' brought be out to the netball courts. The what? Netball is one of New Zealand's favourite sports. Played almost only by females it looks a bit like basketball, but without the backboard, dribbling, and with a few other rules. A very fast-paced game, I was impressed by the skills of the locals of all ages who filled 14 netball courts on the chilly Saturday morning. Saturday night the all-blacks were played France in Auckland and I watched as they (of course), won. Sunday I wandered the beach again (the waves change and I love how the sea looks different every time I SEA it!), and was treated by a large seal gracelessly plopping around  on some rocks at the end,  a cool shell, and a great view from the top of the bluff. Tonight I was treated to a kiwi special - pavlova!! A meringue-like dish, we had it with kiwis and fresh cream - yummmmiee, and a great end to  a great week.
Local netball heros!
 
 Wonder of the week: the 'kiwi language.' Ahh I love it! Bro, I'll meet you this avro, ai? Sweet as! Far out! Lets eat veges, my favourite is collie. Awww, but I wanted chips, fizzies (L&P) and hokey pokey ice cream! Next week I'll try to update on what I actually do 8-5.
 
Clearly I was there. HAKA!

Volcano visits


The Queen's birthday is celebrated in New Zealand on the first weekend of June, with their only winter long weekend, also known as a perfect chance to go for an adventure out of town! Friday night was spent with colleagues as we celebrated the end of the work-week and friends as an intern from Germany who had also been working in Gisborne left for home. Farewell, and thank you for all the German words, laughter and great memories!  The next morning, I packed and hopped on the bus to Whakatane and the volcanic adventure of a lifetime!! It was an absolutely gorgeous day, and the bus passed through an incredible gorge with an extremely windy road, through inland farming areas, and along beautiful  coastline. I settled into the backpackers in Whakatane and explored the lovely, colourful downtown nestled between the ocean and some impressive cliffs! I caught the local bay hopper bus one town over to Ohope, which has one of the nicest beaches in all of New Zealand! I walked along the lovely, sandy beach in the beautiful sunshine - ahhhh the life. I then headed along the coast, up the cliffs along a trail which ran along the shore to connect Whakatane and Ohope. I had a great walk with beautiful views of the ocean and surrounding landscape. A few hours later, I was back in Whakatane for a quiet evening in preparation for my SUPER EXCITING DAY tomorrow.

 This super exciting day blew me away! (Thankfully not literally:)) I enjoyed my birthday present from Mom and Dad - a tour on an active volcano! I hopped on a boat for the 50km trip out to the volcanic island. Along the way, I enjoyed the beautiful sunshine and sea spray and part of our trip was even accompanied by dolphins!! A large pod joined the journey and swam all around the boat with incredible speed and grace - a fantastic start to the day. I arrived at the island, and, armed with a hard hat and breathing mask, took a small zodiac to the shore. I walked among mounds of stone debris from the last eruption (no lava on this volcano) as I made my way to the crater. My group passed through hot streams with mineral crystals formed on the surface of the rocks, walked over and around heat and pressure mounds and admired the vivid red to yellow colours of the surrounding crater edges. We stood metres away from venting fumaroles, and boiling mud and water pits - so cool!!! Finally, we stood on the edge of the crater and looked down into a lot of steam and a lake of bubbling, not-so-yummy looking water. SO COOL!!!!!! On our way off the island, we checked out an old mining camp and saw some of the new equipment which is keeping a watch on the place. It was really neat to be on a volcano  and see 'the Earth in motion' wowwwieeee!!! :)

What happens when a German fruit picker, an italian author, a belgian doctor and I sit down to dinner in the hostel? Not a bad joke which I know you were hoping for, but an enjoyable evening spent playing cards. Next day after a morning in town, I caught the bus back to Gisborne. Definitely a well-spent long weekend!

PS - technical difficulties, pictures to come.

Far out in Gisborne!!


FAR OUT! I'm in Gisborne! My far out home for the next 3 months, and I love it here!! My first month here has passed in a flash, and I can hardly believe it's actually been a month since I arrived in Gizzy. I arrived here after a 3h bus ride from Rotarua, which is about how far out of town you have to drive to find another major city. I drove in through a magnificent gorge and ended up on some of the Eastern-most land in the world. Gisborne's slogan and claim to fame is, 'first to see the light,' and it holds the honour of being the first city to see the sun each morning. The couple I am boarding with picked me up at the bus stop and took me out to their beautiful home at Wainui beach (yes, I live at a beach:)). Wainui is a 10 minute drive out of town, but makes up for that by being peaceful and being perched along one of the nicest beaches I have ever seen, let alone seen from the windows of the house! The house itself is a lovely, modern house which seems to belong next to the ocean and it is almost as wonderful as the people who live in it! My hosts have welcomed me more than I ever could have asked and are super friendly and accommodating! They cook and bake wonderfully and are always happy to teach me kiwisms and show me the area. So where have we explored? In my first few days of sunshine, I explored the long and beautiful destination surfing beach, toured town and saw a bit of the countryside. Gisborne town has a population of about 46 000, and is big enough to have everything, but still very much keep the small-town feel. It's main street is lined with palm trees,  and it has quite the surfing, etc., vibe if you look for it - there is another beautiful beach right in town. Town also has many shops including a McDonalds, but no Tim Hortons, and houses both old and new.

Wainui Beach - my view.
 
 I have experienced and been told that it has a different feel to most of the rest of New Zealand. It is also interesting to note that a large proportion of its residents are Maori (First Nations), almost 50%. Out here on the distant east coast, not really on the way to anywhere and without any huge tourist attractions, Gizzy is off the usual tourist track, and seemingly remains a few years behind the rest of New Zealand, but not at all in a bad way! The main industries around here are primary with most people involved in farming (including lots of wine production), fishing and forestry, or supporting those industries through other town businesses. There aren't huge opportunities for educated professionals in town, and as a result of this and a combination of other factors, it is a fairly low socio-economic area, especially in some of the smaller areas outside the city, but I love it all the same. From my experiences, Gisborne is a lovely, vibrant town with extremely friendly, amazing people and a great atmosphere.

Gisborne from Kaiti Hill.
 
 So what have I gotten up to in 4 weeks? Quite a bit it would seem! A highlight was feeding the stingrays of Tatapouri! One morning (bright and really, really early), a German traveller passing through and I went out to Tatapouri to experience the magic of the wild stingrays. We waded out into the ocean with our hip waders with a guide and a bucket of fish pieces, and soon enough we were rewarded by  stingrays! There were at least 8 - 3 big ones and 5 little ones of another species, and they swam around us, pushing into us, almost climbing us, and eating the fish right from our hands with their bony jaws. They were huge, strong, and some of the most graceful ocean creatures I have seen - morning well spent! The traveller and I then drove up the coast to Tolaga bay where we saw and walked along the longest wharf in the southern hemisphere! The wharf was built thanks to formerly booming sheep and lumber exports, but today stood as a long, unused wharf and a fantastic way to see Tolaga Bay. We also climbed a hill for an inland view. On the East Coast, the coastline is usually a beautiful beach or cliffs, followed by steeply rolling, hills, terraced by erosion and the feet of many grazing animals. The erosion, both coastal and inland is intense as the young land is 'soft,' and very full of water. In many places, sections of road have been washed out, and the battle to move rivers and repair roads is ongoing and intense along many stretches of road. Our stingray friends invited us to join them later that day for some local musical talent, and we did!  Well, there's an average weekend for ya!

An average day up at Tolaga Bay!
Other weekend activities include touring the countryside, seeing places such as patches of local native bush, and hills which offer great views of the countryside, going up Kaiti hill to overlook the city, helping the community plant native vegetation in an estuary, watching rugby and watching movies with friends. Rugby is a Friday and Saturday night staple around here, and every night I'm around, I'm sure to watch it like a true kiwi! And yes, I have friends!!! I have met more people than I remember the names of, and they have all been friendly and welcoming. I've met both a few fellow travellers and interns (a grand total of 3) and many locals of all ages. Together, we explore the town, meet more people, hang out at the beach, watch Julie try to surf in the freezing cold water and laugh, visit the sailing club and hang out with our all ages Wednesday night crew at 'the fishing club.' I have loved getting to know everyone, and was very sad to say bye to one of the interns when she went home.

One of my favourite experiences thus far has been my job!! I am interning at the local council as a member of the policy planning team. I am helping with their freshwater plan, and learning a lot about freshwater and developing management plans. As part of my job, I also get to 'tour' the countryside and visit sites of interest with my colleagues. These sites have included: numerous farms including kiwifruit and citrus plantations, vinyards, sheep stations; hydoelectric dam stations; and numerous rivers and waterways. It's been a great way to see the countryside 'up the coast' to Tologa bay, Tokamoru bay and Ruoatoria, inland to Matawa, and everywhere in-between. Going inland one day, we followed a windey one-lane logging road with trucks going in both directions. How does that work? We just call in on our radio our location and direction every km and hope that all the other rigs do the same. "Loaded runabout 4k-3 anyone? 10-4, you're golden." Another exciting day saw me streamside doing biotic river analysis (aka looking for bugs in the stream) with students from a small, remote school. I love my job!! 

Early-morning sunrise.

 

Rotarua!


Hey! My bad on the blog delay, I was busy enjoying life!! Sooo, time  travel back to Rotarua, ahhh I can just smell the sulfur-scented air. As geothermal capital of New Zealand, there were many geological phenomenon going on in the area, enough to make the air have a very distinctly Rotarua smell. The next morning, I headed out to 'Waipato thermal wonderland' - a themepark where the main attractions are bubbling mud, geysers, acid pools and more. It's hard to describe these incredible features in words, and, I've found it even harder to capture the bright colours on camera, so I guess to fully appreciate them, you'll just have to go see them for yourself some day. But here goes a try. First stop was a lake along the side of the road, in any other place, normal enough. In Rotarua, it was a steaming, hot water lake with funny colours in its crystal clear bottom. Next, was pools of bubbling, boiling, slopping mud. Also very steamy, these pools made lovely slurping noises as they churned away - very fun to watch!! Next was the Lady Knox Geyser, a shooting jet caused by a combination of geothermal heat and a bit of soapy, man-made encouragement! Next was an area filled with boiling water and mud, craters from geothermal activity, brilliant colours around pools of hot, acidic water fittingly named artist's palate, terraces of crystalized minerals and a bright red pool of acid. After that beautiful display, I headed back into town and walked around the harbour area, and the local, in-town displays of geothermal wonder - more bubbling mud and acidic pools out the back door of the hostels. Overall it was a very cool display of geo phenomenon, and for those of you who know me, you know just how exciting I find that!! In the evening, there was a night market in the city's downtown with a fun, festive atmosphere and lots of music and international street food - a great end to a great day!
 
Bubble, bubble, toil and trouble!

The next day, I found a cheap ticket to a local tourist kiwi experience attraction. There, I saw all sorts of beautiful native birds and reptiles, birds preforming in a cool show, andddd, drumrollll, kiwis!!! Not the fruit, not the people, but the threatened, flightless, nocturnal birds. They were in an indoor enclosure as part of a conservation project, and I loved watching the small, funny-looking but beautiful birds go about their business. They have a lovely, hilarious and awkward walk/hop and were  a joy to watch! After the kiwis, I embarked on the next part of my adventure  and hopped on a bus to my home for the next three months - Gisborne.

Champagne pools steaming away!

No, not a river - a terraced slope of crystalized minerals! Wayyyy cooler!

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Hostels not Hostile


Moving on to today! I had an early morning in Auckland and headed out for an exciting day of adventures on my round-about way to Rotarua. The morning on the bus had me convinced that my driver and I were the only ones on the bus who knew English, but I learned a lot about NZ's economy and trade from him - interesting! Our first stop was at Waitomo caves, aka glow worm central!! The caves were neat, but even better than the mighty stalactites were the worms which lit up the sky of the cave just similarly to star constellations. As we went on a boat float through the caves, the worms, lit up to attract food, gave us quite a display of pale blue lights, and if I didn't feel very inclined to keep two feet firmly in the boat, their lights might have gotten me! Sorry, no pictures were allowed. Next we cruised onto somewhere I'm sure you've seen, so its not too special, so normal it's probably a hobbit for you to picture it… HOBBITON!!!!! (yeah, pretty special:P) We had perfect, sunshiny Shire weather and the set was sooo detailed and real it was unbelievable. Everything from the squashes and gourds in the baskets, to the real gardens, to the fake trees  was unreal. Our guide shared stories of the making of the movie with us, what was real (40 hobbit holes and almost everything around them) and what was fake (the tree above Bag End, the lichen (yogurt, paint and sawdust), and not much else). The movies used lots of perspective to make little things look little and big things look big, so there were miniature hobbit holes, and grown-up sized ones. So cool!!!! After a great tour and a relaxing break at the green dragon, we hit the road through rolling hills and many sheep to Rotarua - geothermal capital of NZ!

 

Have I mentioned how much I enjoy staying in hostels and travelling as a solo backpacker? If not, the answer's a lot!! To date I have been staying in hostels, and while sometimes they aren't the most luxurious of accommodations and your bed breaks when you roll over, etc., the benefits make up for it. I have met so many neat people around hostels as roommates, fellow cooks, etc.. Also surprising to me is who I see in hostels - people of all nationalities, languages, and fashions but more interestingly, age - so many people much older than I would have expected! Sometimes I wonder what this experience would be like if my fellow hostiles and I didn't have internet connections around the world to entertain ourselves in evenings, but as I get to keep in touch with all you lovely folks, I'm not complaining. Travelling solo also helps with meeting others as, if I don’t want to spend all day thinking loudly at myself, I have to meet others. Gems I've met so far include my lovely travel buddy Erika, a Pilates dance trainer for Cirque de Solei and Stomp, a 50yr old cracker-jack triathlete climbing mountains, an engineer who quit his job to travel, an Auckland University administrator, Kiwis seeing the sights of their beautiful country, Auzzies visiting the neighbours, people on journeys literally around the world, others who've spent time 'woofing' around New Zealand, and more. The conversations we've had for hours on transit and in evenings have been highlights of my trip so far. We all share stories about our times in New Zealand, our impressions and our comparisons to home - so cool! Whether we connect over an awkward smile lugging our backpacks, or a shared seat on the bus, people, especially solo travellers are always eager to talk, and I love it!

Home sweet home!

Green Dragon

Bag End, nough said

I SAW THISSSS. :)

Sweet As

Yep, I'm pretty much amazing at keeping a blog. Clearly I'm super on top of this. Nahh, I was too busy enjoying the beautiful Northlands! Travel the past three days has included a trip up to Bay of Islands, further up to Cape Reinga, and back down to Auckland. The trip up to Bay of Islands led us outside of the city and into the beautiful New Zealand countryside. And it was a countryside any other country would be jealous of - it was so *green*! After much thought, my fellow passengers and I decided it was a different green than in Canada - a much more neon green, possibly due to a lot of recent growth as a drought has just ended, but really cool nonetheless. The first stop was the at Tane Mahuta, Lord of the Forest and the oldest giant Kauri tree in New Zealand. Over 13m in circumference and 17m until the first branch, this grandfather tree was truly impressive, and a the songs of a Maori guide gave me some insight into its spiritual value for the Maori. After a lunch stop at a beautiful beach along the Tazman sea, I reached the Bay of Islands and toured the town and grabbed groceries via a seaside bike ride. After a swim and great dinner with my fellow passengers, we turned in with excitement our upcoming day trip!

I was able to experience more of the Kauri forest on our way to Cape Reinga, (pronounced with a lovely Kiwi accent). Cape Reinga, the North tip of New Zealand where the Tazman sea meets the Pacific, was far and away one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. It combined the spiritual significance of being the place the Maori believe the dead left the world from, picturesque ocean, crashing waves, beaches and cliffs to take my breath away (but thankfully gave it back rather than turning it over to the other side!).  The lunch stop of the day was another beach, and after a lovely swim we saw some fins in the bay, low and behold, they were doll-fins (better known as dolphins)!! Next up was sandboarding, aka tobogganing down ridiculously steep sand dunes, and I had SO MUCH FUN!!! After a speedy cruise on the bus down a creek, along 90-mile beach and through many sleepy fishing villages, we made it home safe and sound.

 My final day in Cape Reinga started with a visit to the Waitangi treaty grounds where I got to hear the story of the Waitiangi treaty between the Maori and the British and see related historical icons. These icons included a world-record holding Maori canoe big enough for 150 warriors and a giant, ornately carved treaty house lodge. After seeing a fantastic cultural performance from a Maori art troop, I kayaked in the beautiful, sunny Bay of Islands. The water was lovely and the backdrop of volcanic islands and peaks was fantastic. I then headed back to Auckland for the night before continuing my journey.
Big Kahuna Mr. Tane Mahuta

Ship-shape boat 

Watch out for your breath!

Sandboarding not boring!!

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Coast to Coast

Today was the Coast to Coast day! One of my roommates, Erika, and I got a decently early start to our day on the Coast to Coast trail. Erika is a teacher from Calgary taking a year to stay with family and see the sights in Australia, plus this month in New Zealand. And we had so many *bonding* experiences today, which you'll hear about later, and because we have such good *chemistry,* we've decided to travel up to the North together! Back to this morning, the Coast to Coast trail stretches across Auckland and its many suburbs, and allows one to reach both the West and East coasts of the country after 16km of TRAMPING!! We started our journey, running up hill so steep it was hill-arious, to reach a bus stop where we planned to bus to the West coast in Onehunga (please don't ask me to pronounce that, the bus drivers did… several times:)). We arrived… at the wrong bus stop, but got a friendly lift to the right one, which promptly got into a dramatic accident with a sign post. We're in good health, as are all the rest of the fine passengers, and the bus and the sign will probably recover with some help. A new bus and a winding tour through the suburbs later, we turned up in Onehuanga, dipped out toes in the West water and started East! The trail was well marked with little blue signs which we followed faithfully through strange random rainshowers, etc.. I wont retrace every step, but highlights include: getting a real taste of Auckland-area housing and life outside of the CBD; seeing some rugby; the University of Auckland; fountains; amazing trees and what I'm pretty sure was every, very-green park in Auckland! Our first large park was One Tree Hill/Cornwall Park where baaaaaaa, we were greeted by our first New Zealand sheepies roaming throughout the park!!! Our next park, Mt. Eden, was the incredible, grassy remnants of a volcano crater which also offered a fantastic view of the Auckland area, which is a surprisingly sprawling, and well put together area - not AUCKward at all! My geoloving self got my first taste of the super interesting features of NZ first hand at the crater, and then learned all about them at our next stop, the Aukland Museum! Located along our route in, you guessed it, another park (this one featuring innumerable cricket pitches), the museum had great Maori artifacts (super fascinating with amazing carvings), displays on New Zealand wildlife, geography, war history and more! Belated Anzac Day, by the way. Next, we finally made it to the harbour, mission accomplished! Then, plus some groceries, we were hostel-bound to crash and visit with our German roommates who are appalled we don't know the game Ludo? Northward we go tomorrow!
Proud, NZ sheep! (not sheepish at all)

 Maori meeting house where wood meets beauty

'Nough said. Personally, I think I'm in a great spot!